About three days ago, caught in the throes of egg cookery, I realized that Ann Seranne’s name doesn’t ring a whole lot of bells these days in food circles.
Even Alice Arndt’s celebrated Culinary Biographies fails to mention Seranne.
We shouldn’t ignore this lady and her place in the pantheon of culinarians contributing to the world of food. After all, not only did Seranne serve as executive editor of now-defunct Gourmet magazine, she worked as food editor of the New York Post, food consultant to NBC and other institutions, and contributed articles to Family Circle and other magazines, in addition to her pedestal at Gourmet.
Yet she wrote over two dozen cookbooks, edited scads more,* and counted among her friends American food icon James Beard. She wrote The Art of Egg Cookery and The Complete Book of Egg Cookery. Of eggs, she said, so truthfully:
Eggs play a most important role in all our cooking. First, they are essential in the construction of sauce, soufflés, custards, and mousses. Second, eggs leaven our cakes, meringues and frostings. Third, eggs emulsify our salad dressings and mayonnaise. Fourth, eggs bind our meat loaves and croquettes. Fifth, eggs clarify our consommés and bouillons. Sixth, eggs prevent crystallization in our ice creams, and, seventh, aggs are responsible for the crisp crusts achieved on fried foods and the golden crusts on pastry. In sum, eggs are indispensable to any cook.
Here’s a list of her books:
Western Junior League Cookbook (Ed.)
6 thoughts on “Ghosts of Gourmet: Ann Seranne”
Stephanie, Ann Seranne really has disappeared from the culinary pantheon, hasn’t she? Thanks for sharing.
Wow!I found your website because my mom has the Ann Seranne cookbook America Cooks that is very rare and expensive and we recently bought her a better copy off ebay for $65. I found the Blender Cookbook and have been making stuff from it. Love your blog. And now I know all about Pieter Aertsen and his work. thanks for the education!
Another long forgotten food writer that I enjoy is Nell B. Nichols. She edited all the Farm Journal cookbooks, which are really lovely.
I have to admit that I didn’t know what Fluffo was! And I also did a double-take, but for different reasons.
P.S. I know what Fluffo is (or was)
I did a double take at this one:
Creative Cooking Made Easy: The Golden Fluffo Cookbook
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