Gherkins & Tomatoes

Gherkins & Tomatoes

Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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valentine-2

Let Me Count the Ways: St. Valentine’s Day 101 (Yes, There’s a French Connection)

February 14, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Remember the old shoeboxes for valentines in your grade school classroom? How you’d decorate your box with all sorts of frou-frous and hope the cute little boy (or the cute little girl) with the dimples would give you a valentine card, one of those mass-produced things? In school, at least, probaly no teacher ever told you why so much was made of Valentine’s Day. Right? In fact, the American way of celebrating St. Valentine’s day really began in the nineteenth […]

Categories: Cakes, Coconuts, Recipes, Southern Food • Tags: Cake, Claudius, Coconut Cake, Cooking, Feast Day Cookbook, Food, Geoffrey Chaucer, History of St. Valentine's Day, Juno Februata, Lupercalia, Recipes, Saint Valentine, St. Valentine's Day, Valentine Cards, Valentine's Day, Valentines

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Christmas Hotel Roanoke 3

SUGARPLUM VISIONS: Christmas Cookies

December 20, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

…visions of sugarplums danced in their heads. ~~Clement C. Moore~~ ” ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas” Happy Holidays to all readers and visitors to Gherkins & Tomatoes / Cornichons et Tomates! I will “see” you again on January 2. ‘Tis soon the season to be jolly. And to bake cookies, the sugarplums of today. I’m about to head out to the kitchen to do just that right now. For many Americans, especially those of Northern European descent, Christmas without special […]

Categories: Bibliographies, Christmas, Cookies • Tags: Bibliographies, Christmas, Cookies, Cooking, Culinary History, Food, Food History, Gingerbread man, Recipes

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Juan Diego

December 12: The Virgin of Guadalupe

December 10, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Patron Saint of Mexico and the Americas Mexican novelist Carlos Fuentes once said that “…one may no longer consider himself a Christian, but you cannot truly be considered a Mexican unless you believe in the Virgin of Guadalupe.” Apocryphal or not, the story of the Virgin of Guadalupe makes fascinating reading. And the food’s pretty good, too, like most feast-day food tends to be. But first a little history. An Aztec convert, Saint Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin*, first saw the Virgin […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Mexico • Tags: Atole, Cooking, Culinary History, Food, Food History, France, French Cooking, Mexico, Recipes, Saints' Days, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe

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Sunset at Ramadan in Morocco (Used by permission of David Young.)

RAMADAN KARIM — The Fast

July 28, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

(I wrote this several years ago and include it here as a tribute to the Moroccans I knew then and to all the people who will begin fasting for Ramadan starting on Monday, August 1. Note that while Paula Wolfert’s cookbook, Couscous and Other Good from Morocco, seems to be cited everywhere, Kitty Morse — who grew up in Morocco — has also written a number of excellent books on Moroccan cuisine.) Manage with bread and butter until God sends the […]

Categories: Bread, Morocco, Recipes • Tags: Agadir, Ait Baha, Anti-Atlas, Bread, Cooking, Fasting, Food, High Atlas, Morocco, Peace Corps, Ramadan, Recipes

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john-dory

Cooking with Saint-Pierre (John Dory)

February 23, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

As it fell on a holy-day, And vpon an holy-tide-a, Iohn Dory bought him an ambling nag, To Paris for to ride-a.* ~~ Child Ballad #284A: “John Dory” I first met John Dory at the open-air fish market in Rabat, Morocco. He’s a solitary soul. Doesn’t hang out too much with his own kind. And he goes by many names, John does: Saint-Pierre in France (also Poule de Mer, Sea-Hen, and Dorée), Gall in Catalonia, Gal in the French Midi, […]

Categories: Africa, Fish, France, French Cooking, Morocco, Recipes • Tags: Africa, Ballads, Child Ballads, Cooking, Fish, Food, France, French Cooking, John Dory, Louis Eustache Ude, Morocco, Recipes, St. Perre, The French Cook, William MacGillivray

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chartreuse-green-beans

Chartreuse and the Vallée du Désert: The Elixir of Life

February 16, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

While writing my brief “Gherkins & Tomatoes” blog post, “Cookbooks for a Desert Island, or an Autumn Afternoon,” I thumbed through de Groot’s book once more, swearing I would cook “Green Beans Sautéed in Cream” and “Potato Pancakes of the Mountains.” The price of peace and solitude has been unending struggle. ~~Roy Andries de Groot, The Auberge of the Flowering Hearth Every once in a while, a book speaks to my soul, over and over again. Roy Andries de Groot’s […]

Categories: Book Reviews, French Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Chartreuse, Cooking, Cooks, Cuisine Francaise, Food, France, French Cooking, Recipes, Roy Andries de Groot

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Renoir's "Luncheon of the Boating Party"

FOOD FOR ART’S SAKE: Eating with the Impressionists

February 7, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

In celebrating art, the Western world owes a tremendous debt to France. Once a mecca for Impressionist artists and others, France nurtured both their souls and their bellies. And in France, art goes back a long way, back to the time of Cro-Magnon man who left his indelible marks on the dim damp walls of the caves of Lascaux in the Dordogne area of southwestern France.

Categories: Art, Bibliographies, Food Columns, French Cooking, Mushrooms, Pies--Savory, Potatoes, Recipes • Tags: Artists, Claude Monet, Cuisine Francaise, Fish, Food, France, French Cooking, Impressionism, Luncheon of the Boating Party, Mushrooms, Potato, Quiche, Recipes, Salon des Refusés, Shrimp

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Harissa

La Malbouffe, Oui ou Non? Fast (Ethnic) Food and the French

January 5, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

If you saw the following headline  pop up on one of the many news feeds streaming into thousands of computers around the global, you might think, “Oops, some editor didn’t ingest their caffeine fix in time!” French Get the Taste for Fast [Ethnic] Food (Click on the link above to read the article that inspired this post.) Ah oui? The honest-to-goodness truth? A pita restaurant in Antwerp, Belgium scored a whopping 13 out of 20 points from the picky GaultMillau […]

Categories: France, French Cooking • Tags: Colette, Cooking, Fast Food, France, French colonial empire, French cuisine, Harissa, Immigrant cuisine, North African Cuisine, Paris, Recipes

Les Quatre Mendiants au Chocolat, A Candy Offshoot of Provence’s Thirteen Christmas Desserts

December 8, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Gorgeous, huh? Yummy? You bet! And the best part is that, with a quick flick of a switch and your wrist, you too can make these beauties, part of the Thirteen Desserts of a Provençal Christmas. Mendiants au Chocolat Noir ou Blanc Makes about 75 – 100 candies, depending on size of circles 1 pound dark bittersweet chocolate (60 – 70% cacao) or good-quality white chocolate Candied citron Dried figs, cut into small squares Almonds, shelled, blanched if desired, toasted* […]

Categories: Baking, Chocolate, Christmas, Cooking, France, French Cooking • Tags: Christmas, Cuisine Francaise, France, French Cooking, Les Quatre Mendiants, Provence, Recipes, Thirteen Desserts, Treize Desserts

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Idylls of Cuisine, #89

November 21, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

  [A photograph, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Cooking, Europe, France, French Cooking • Tags: Foie Gras, France, French Cooking, Recipes, Sausage, Southwest France

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Foie gras geese 2

Foie Gras and Ties of Tradition in France

November 15, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

With the ban on foie gras in California, I think it’s time to take a closer look at just what foie gras means in French culinary tradition and how it came to be. This post appeared a few years ago, but like tradition, not much has changed, except that some misguided purists want to impose their beliefs on others. Enchanting photos of grey geese and sleek ducks, truffle-hunting dogs and pigs — all signs of autumn in the French countryside. […]

Categories: Agriculture, Cooking, Foie gras, France, French Cooking • Tags: Cuisine Francaise, Ducks, Foie Gras, France, French Cooking, Gavage, Geese, Madeleine Kamman, Recettes, Recipes

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scan0001

The [Culinary] Heroes of France

November 10, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

They’re not in the Panthéon in Paris, where France entombs her heroes, but from all the adulation they receive, you’d think they would be. France not only treats its chefs like celebrities or royalty, but the country  sometimes even views these men (usually they’re all men) like gods. Here’s a taunting image by photographer and film director Francis Giacobetti, taken in the 1980s. From left to right: Alain Dutournier, Gérard Boyer, Jean-André Charial, Jean Delaveyne, Roger Vergé, Gérard Antonin, Paul […]

Categories: Chefs, Cooking, France, French Cooking, Mushrooms, Recipes • Tags: Appetizers, Chefs, France, French Cooking, Recipes

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Pumkpin frost

Winter’s Leafy Greens: A Romantic History à la Française

November 4, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

A few mornings ago, the pumpkins sprawling on my front porch sparkled with frost. And you know what that means. It’s time for some serious rustic cooking. (And I’d like to include a recording right here of someone yelling “Yippee!”) It’s time to turn to the hardy greens of winter, something that French cooks* use instead of the more delicate summer greens like butterhead lettuce or red oak. Somehow, and this might just be me, after September cold salad just […]

Categories: Beans, Cooking, France, French Cooking, Greens, Pork, Soup • Tags: Cooking, Cooking White Beans, Greens, La Varenne, Le Cuisinier François, Recipes, Soup, The French Cook

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Jack-o-Lantern (Used by permission.)

MORE THAN MEETS THE PIE

October 18, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

    The other day I saw another sign of autumn: a smashed pumpkin lying along the side of the road, pieces scattered like the crumbs in the forest that Hansel Gretel dropped on the way to the witch’s house. Pumpkins deserve more respect.  Think about it. Remember Washington Irving’s Headless Horseman, in “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow”, who bashed poor Ichabod Crane with a carved pumpkin?  And year after year, pumpkins get to strut their stuff only in pies.  […]

Categories: American Cooking, Pumpkin, Recipes, Thanksgiving • Tags: Cooking, Food, Pumpkin, Recipes, Thanksgiving

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what-mrs-fisher-knows

Ladies of the Pen and the Cookpot: The Other Mrs. (Abby) Fisher

September 13, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Before M. F. K. Fisher, sometimes known as plain Mrs. Fisher, there was Mrs. Abby Fisher. And Abby Fisher’s personage couldn’t be more different from M. F. K. Fisher than if a novelist like Flannery O’Connor dreamed her up. The author of what food historians long believed to be the first African-American cookbook,* Abby Fisher counted on others to actually write What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking in 1881.** As a former slave from South Carolina she went […]

Categories: American Cooking, Cookbooks, Corn, Recipes, Southern Food • Tags: Abby Fisher, African-American Cooking, Cookbooks, Cooking, Cooks, Corn, Food, Recipes, Southern cooking

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Going for the Coconuts in Haiti

Coconut Groves and Coconut Dreams

August 3, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

“Columbus had no idea, of course, of the almost infinite ramifications of his voyages on the way future people would eat.” ‑‑Raymond Sokolov‑‑ Why We Eat What We Eat(1991) Trying to get the meat out of a coconut is like trying to pull a tooth without Novocain, a very painful process. I know—I tried to do the locavore thing once with a casual piña colada, wrestling with a coconut from my yard and nearly decapitating myself with a machete. As […]

Categories: Africa, Haiti, Recipes • Tags: Coconuts, Cooking, Food, Haiti, Recipes

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Saffron flower (Used with permission.)

Saffron: The Gold We Eat

July 29, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Once used as money instead of gold in Don Quixote’s Spain, saffron costs upwards of $1000 US per pound. Indeed, the world’s costliest spice.  Most likely you will not have ever seen saffron for sale in your local grocery’s spice department. Knowledgeable customers ask the store managers for it; they keep it behind the counter, safe from pilferers. Why do cooks desire saffron? Saffron lends an indescribable flavor to food. It also imparts a tenacious yellow color to anything it touches; […]

Categories: Beef, Recipes, Rice, Spices • Tags: Beef, Cooking, Food, Recipes, Rice, Saffron, Tagine

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peanuts-1

Not Nuts (The Natural History and Far-Flung Adventures of the Lowly Peanut)

July 26, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

A nguba is an arachide is a cacahuete. Or Gedda, French, and Spanish for “pea‑nut,” if you prefer. Arachis hypogaea looks like a nut, tastes like a nut, but is actually not a nut at all. More like a legume or bean. The name “groundnut” tries to get the thing situated correctly but even that is incorrect. Botanically, peanuts belong to the beans/legumes clan and are NOT nuts. Gastronomically, peanuts can’t compete with those culinary wunderkind, caviar or truffles. But peanuts don’t aspire to knighthood or a title. In the U.S., peanuts usually take the form of peanut butter or salty snacks. However, peanuts have both an ancient history and a tremendous potential in the cookpot, nobility or not.

Categories: Africa, Chicken, Food Columns, Nuts, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: Africa, Food, George Washington Carver, Peanuts, Pork, Recipes, Spices

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Tomatoes on the Vine (Photo courtesy of L. Wilcoxen)

Tomatoes, Dust, and a Tasty Soupçon of Africa, Too

July 20, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

My nose burned a little and an odd sensation on my forehead no doubt meant more freckles popping out. I didn’t care. I sat right where I wanted to be on that late August day, in the dirt between two rows of leafy tomato plants. Red globes of all sizes dangled like Christmas ornaments from the plants, the vines sinking into the dust from all that ripe weight.

Categories: Africa, Chicken, Chile Peppers, Food Columns, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: Africa, Chicken, Food, Habanero, Hot Peppers, Recipes, Tomatoes

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Russia mushrooms

From Mother Russia with Love: Meaty Mushrooms and Relentless Lent

March 25, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

One of her greatest pleasures in summer was the very Russian sport of hodit’ po gribi (looking for mushrooms). Fried in butter and thickened with sour cream her delicious finds appeared regularly on the dinner table. Not that the gustatory moment mattered much. Her main delight was in the quest. ~~ Vladimir Nabokov, Speak, Memory Nabokov hits on something many of us reading his words cannot really sense, cannot really feel. For those of us who grew up on canned […]

Categories: Beef, Cookbooks, Cooking, Lent, Mushrooms, Russia • Tags: Beef Stroganoff, Classic Russian Cooking: A Gift to Young Housewives, Cookbooks, Cooks, Elena Molokhovets, Joyce Toomre, Lent, Mushrooms, Recipes, Russia, Vladimir Nabokov

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Lent Miracle Whip

Idylls of Cuisine, #52

February 28, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A photograph, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.] *I usually don’t write anything for these “picture-only” posts, but I encourage readers to check out the “Shelf Life” Web site, because of the clever commentary on packaged foods and retro food-product ads. A column, “Shelf Life,” appears monthly in the National Toronto Post as well.

Categories: Art, Lent, Photography • Tags: Food Photography, Lent, Mayonnaise, Miracle Whip, Recipes

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Oysters on the Half Shell

Oyster Tales and Pearls of Wisdom

January 5, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

“Secret, self-contained, and as solitary as an oyster.” ~~ Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol (Due to family obligations for a few weeks, I’m posting some previous posts that I’ve dusted off and updated. ) There’s something intriguing about the oyster, you know. Maybe its looks?  Maybe its texture? Maybe both? Oysters frankly resemble the human female vulva. Given the ancient human tendency to believe that eating one’s enemy transfers the enemy’s strength to a warrior, well, it’s not a long shot to […]

Categories: Food Columns, Oysters, Recipes, Shellfish • Tags: Bread Stuffing, Food, Oyster Dressing, Oysters, Recipes, Southern cooking, Turkey

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chess-pie

Just Pie … Chess Pie

January 4, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Sweet foods haunt many childhood food memories. And usually pie stands high on any list of sweet memories. Sadly, pie-making is fast becoming a lost American art form. Too bad, really, because although the early English settlers brought basic pie-making techniques with them, the culinary skills of the colonial American housewife elevated pie-making to a rarified art form. In hundreds of log cabins, farmhouses, and mansions, women of every socio-economic class invented light flaky pastry and hundreds of fillings.

Categories: Chocolate, Food Columns, Lemons, Pies--Sweet, Recipes • Tags: Brown Sugar, Chocolate, Food, Lemon, Pie, Recipes, Southern cooking

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Christmas goose

Cooking One’s Goose

December 24, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The traditional English Christmas goose didn’t really make it over here on the other side of the Atlantic, chiefly because the native (and meatier) turkey prevailed. Neither did the other traditional dish of the English Christmas  season — roasted boar — with its tusked furry head, mouth filled with an apple. [That's a pagan custom, incidentally, handed down since the Druids, or so some authors claim. We'll delve into that one later. After all, we have until January 6th, 2010 […]

Categories: Christmas, Cookbooks, Cooking, England, English Cooking, Middle Ages, Poultry, Recipes • Tags: Christmas, Cookbooks, Curye on Inglysch, Goose, Recipes

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Christmas Wassail_Bowl

Wassailing Through

December 21, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Wassaile the trees, that they may beare You many a Plum and many a Peare: For more or lesse fruits they will bring, As you do give them Wassailing. A foot of snow presses against the front door, the presents glimmer under the Christmas tree, and Aunt Lillie’s sugar cookies lie temptingly in the old painted tin box. And the Wassail punch simmers slowly on the stove, the fragrance of cinnamon wafting through the house. On a dark, cold winter […]

Categories: Christmas, England, English Cooking, Video • Tags: Celtic Music, Christmas, England, English Cooking, Recipes, Twelfth Night, Wassail

Photo credit: John Blower

Deep Roots: A Love Note to the Lowly Carrot

August 11, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

A dish of carrot hastily cooked may still have soil uncleaned off the vegetable. ~~ Chinese Proverb Except for the feathery grey braids poking out from under the rebozo, she looked like a child washing dishes. But she wasn’t a child and she wasn’t washing dishes. Rinsing the large carrot— one about the size of a zucchini zonked on steroids at the end of a scorching mid-western summer — in her impromptu sink, the old Indian woman leaned over a […]

Categories: Afghanistan, Beef, Carrots, Lamb, Mexico, Recipes, Rice • Tags: Afghanistan, Beef, Carrots, Chicken, Lamb, M. M. Vilmorin-Andrieux, Qabili Pilau, Recipes, Rice, The Vegetable Garden

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Children with Carrots in Afghanistan

Of Carrots and Things

August 7, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Never bolt your door with a boiled carrot. Irish Proverb A memory, augmented and tempered by time … and carrots. I close my eyes and scraps of the past flicker through my mind. The last carrot rasped against the finest “teeth” on the four-sided grater, orangy juice pooling slowly into a small puddle in the bowl. “Big” Grandma (as opposed to my other grandmother,  “Teeny” Grandma) stood back and shook her head. “Not enough carrots. I guess we need two […]

Categories: Afghanistan, Cakes, Carrots, Recipes • Tags: Afghanistan, Cakes, Carrots, Recipes

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Photo credit: Jennifer Woodard Maderazo

Diana Kennedy’s Menu for Charles, Prince of Wales

July 20, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

In 2002, Diana Kennedy, well-known author of Mexican cookbooks, served the following menu to the man who would be king, Charles, Prince of Wales:* Cocktails & Appetizers Tequila Apéritifs Fresh Tortillas Small Pumpkin Seeds Toasted and Ground with Roasted Habanero Chilies Guacamole Enhanced with Grapes and Pomegranate Seeds Meal Cream-of-Squash-Flower Soup Pork Loin Baked in Banana Leaves Cactus and Fresh Young Peas in Green Chile Sauce Dessert Guavas Stuffed with Coconut Mango Sorbet Topped with Tequila-Soaked Strips of Mango Green […]

Categories: Menus, Mexico, Pumpkin, Recipes, Soup, White House • Tags: Cooks, Diana Kennedy, Menus, Mexican Cooking, Mexico, Prince of Wales, Pumpkin, Recipes, Squash, White House

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Transforming Flour, Becoming Bread

June 18, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Putting bread in perspective. A photo essay accompanied by historical commentary. The baking of bread, one of much of  humankind’s most basic foods, transforms seemingly ordinary ingredients into the sublime, at times anyway (for exceptions, just think of black-burned toast or cannonball-consistency buns). Bread belongs more to the sacred than to the mundane. In the making and the analysis, we lose sight of the awe, the miracle of the raw, becoming nourishment. Yeast, bubbling with life, soon to perish in […]

Categories: Baking, Bread, Cookbooks, Recipes • Tags: Baking, Bread, Catharine Esther Beecher, Eliza Acton, Flax Seeds, Janet McKenzie Hill, John Harvey Kellogg, Recipes, Sunflowers Seeds, Whole-Grain Bread, William Henry Robertson. Cooks

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Pepperpot Soup

Adding More Spices to Your Life

May 15, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Jessica B. Harris, chronicler of many things African, at least when it comes to cooking anyway,  includes a recipe for “Traditional Peppersoup Spice Mixture” in her book, The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent (Simon & Schuster, 1998). She says, “I have included this recipe so that you can see the world of new tastes that are yet to be discovered.” Eleven years on, we are still doing that discovering. The peppersoup spice formula reads as follows: 1 tablespoon atariko […]

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, Chicken, Nigeria, Recipes • Tags: Africa, African Cooking. Chicken, Peppersoup, Recipes, Spices

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opera-scappi-scully

The Pope and the Porcupine

April 22, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

When it’s soft, eat the stone and throw the porcupine out. Old saying about tough meat. Chef Bartolomeo Scappi (1500-1577) cooked for two popes (Pius V, for one), as well as for several cardinals. Fortunately for posterity, he also wrote a fat, hands-on tome about  cooking and serving food in Renaissance Italy. Terence Scully’s invaluable translation of Scappi’s Opera (The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi 1570) is the first such rendering in English, making Scappi’s work accessible to many Latin-impaired researchers. […]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Italy, Recipes • Tags: Cooking, Food, Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, Porcupines, Recipes, Terence Scully

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scotch-eggs

Scottish Eggs, Anyone?

April 21, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Scotland’s been in the news a lot lately. But what do Scottish people eat? That’s the question. Tea, most likely. That’s a good place to start. Oatmeal, in scones and porridge (just for breakfast, you would hope). Yes. And whisky. Scotland produces some of the best whisky in the world. Smoky. Peaty. Can’t go wrong with whisky, no. Unless you prefer beer. Like maybe Deuchars’ Indian Pale Ale. And the salmon! My goodness, yes, from the Tay River and Tweed […]

Categories: Eggs, Recipes, Scotland • Tags: Cooking, Food, Recipes, Scotch Eggs, Scotland, Scottish Food, Susan Boyle

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eggplant-baba-ghanouj

Eggplant: Mezze Time

April 1, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

With this post, we continue on our journey of exploration , attempting to learn where eggplant came from and how cooks over the centuries treated it. No discussion of eggplant can ignore baba ghanouj, a dish made with puréed eggplant and tahini (sesame seed paste). According to Nawal Nasrallah, author of one of the few Iraqi cookbooks in English (Delights from the Garden of Eden), baba ghanouj means “the pampered father;” a Lebanese legend suggests that “a dutiful daughter” … […]

Categories: Arab cooking, Eggplant, Lemons, Recipes, Sesame • Tags: Arab cooking, Cooking, Eggplant, Food, Recipes, Tahini

pie-global-history-clarkson

Pie in the Sky: A Review of Janet Clarkson’s “Pie: A Global History”

March 31, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

You will eat, bye and bye, In that glorious land above the sky; Work and pray, live on hay, You’ll get pie in the sky when you die. ~~ Joe Hill*, “The Preacher and the Slave” chorus, 1911 Everybody knows what pie is, right? Wrong, and Janet Clarkson (The Old Foodie) tells us why in her dazzling new book, Pie: A Global History (Reaktion Books, London, 2009). Clarkson brings pie history all together under one crust, as it were, sort […]

Categories: American Cooking, Book Reviews, Chocolate, Pies--Sweet, Recipes • Tags: Book Reviews, Chocolate, Food, Janet Clarkson, Pies, Recipes

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Photo credit: Colin Nederkoorn

Ham and Eggs

March 23, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Omne vivum ex ovo. “All life comes from an egg.” –Latin Proverb– Eggs and Easter go together like…ham and eggs? Well, it hasn’t always been that way. Christians first celebrated Easter in the second century A.D. and the Council of Nicaea, convened in 325 A.D. by the Emperor Constantine, set the official date for Easter. According to the English historian, the Venerable Bede (circa 672-735 A.D.), the name “Easter” originated with the name of the ancient Anglo-Saxon goddess of spring, […]

Categories: Easter, Eggs, Recipes • Tags: Cooking, Easter, Eggs, Food, Food History, Recipes

Festival Lights

St. Joseph’s Day

March 19, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

St. Joseph’s Day (March 19) always enthralls me because of the elaborate “tables” that Italian women created in honor of Saint Joseph. In many ways, these “tables” remind me of Mexican Day of the Dead altars. Here’s a link that takes you to a site with first-person accounts of the feast-day celebration and customs.

Categories: Festivals, Italian Cooking, Italy • Tags: Cooking, Food, Recipes, St. Joseph's Day

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canneles-de-bordeaux

Canelés de Bordeaux

March 16, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Along with vanilla, a bit of legend perfumes these delicious little cakes from the Bordeaux area of France. According to the Worldwide Gourmet [spelling seems to be an issue here ---  some sources use the term cannelé and others canelé. Paula Wolfert, an authority on all manner of cooking, reflects on what she calls canelés . So my vote goes to canelés --- see the package illustration above. ]: Much has been written about the origin of this specialty of […]

Categories: French Cooking • Tags: Canneles de Bordeaux, Cooking, Food, France, Recipes

Postcard of the "Bund" in Shanghai

“The White (Wo)Man’s Burden”: Household Management in the Colonies (With Bibliography)

March 4, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

European women who lived in nineteenth- and twentieth-century foreign outposts sought authoritative voices to guide them through the challenges of living far from the familiar. Although local labor bore the brunt of  daily domestic work, wives of the colonialists need information on how to direct their servants. And as the list below amply illustrates, plenty of authors and authoresses took up their pens to relieve the white woman’s burden.  Today, many of the books are scarce and rare. Take Bon […]

Categories: Bibliographies, China, English Cooking, Recipes, Russia, Wine • Tags: Africa, British Colonial Shanghai, Cocktails, English Cooking, Recipes, Zakuska

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chutney-apricot

MOVE OVER, MAJOR GREY

February 25, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

In keeping with the whole British colonial heritage story [See HERE and HERE for more], here’s a change of continents. From Africa to the Indian subcontinent. Chutney. Etymologically, the word entered English via Urdu ( چٹنی ), Hindi ( चटनी — caṭnī ), and  Bengali (চাটনী) . Chutney is chutney is Major Grey’s mango chutney. Yes and no. Chutney, introduced to Americans around 1850 by colonialists in the British Raj, is more than just mangoes. Or tomato catsup.  Or ketchup. […]

Categories: India, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: British India, Chutney, Cilantro, Cooking, Coriander, Food, India, Major Grey, Major Grey Mango Chutney, Recipes

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

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  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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