Gherkins & Tomatoes

Gherkins & Tomatoes

Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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French cooks Leslie French Domestic

The Cookbooks on Their Shelves: The First English-Language French Cookbooks in the United States, or, Who was Sulpice Barué?

May 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Much has been made of Thomas Jefferson’s influence on the “Frenchification” of cuisine in the young United States and in American diplomatic circles. Just take a look at “The French Touch,” a chapter in Even Jones’s American Food: The Gastronomic Story (1990) or Karen Hess’s “Thomas Jefferson’s Table: Evidence and Influences,” in Dining at Monticello (2005). But, as we have seen, other factors — including the hiring of French chefs by the British upper-class and the arrival of the French […]

Categories: Chefs, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Reference • Tags: Cuisine Francaise, Eliza Leslie, France, French Cooking, French Domestic Cookery, La Petite Cuisiniere Habile, Louis Eustache Ude, Madame Louise-Auguste B.-Utrecht-Friedel, Sulpice Barué, The French Cook, Vincent La Chapelle

john-dory

Cooking with Saint-Pierre (John Dory)

February 23, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

As it fell on a holy-day, And vpon an holy-tide-a, Iohn Dory bought him an ambling nag, To Paris for to ride-a.* ~~ Child Ballad #284A: “John Dory” I first met John Dory at the open-air fish market in Rabat, Morocco. He’s a solitary soul. Doesn’t hang out too much with his own kind. And he goes by many names, John does: Saint-Pierre in France (also Poule de Mer, Sea-Hen, and Dorée), Gall in Catalonia, Gal in the French Midi, […]

Categories: Africa, Fish, France, French Cooking, Morocco, Recipes • Tags: Africa, Ballads, Child Ballads, Cooking, Fish, Food, France, French Cooking, John Dory, Louis Eustache Ude, Morocco, Recipes, St. Perre, The French Cook, William MacGillivray

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Charles_Elme_Francatelli

To the Queen’s Taste: A Brief Meditation on Written Recipes, Part III

September 2, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Carrying on our examination of the written recipe and its significance in what usually was an oral culture (in more ways than one) — the kitchen and cooking — it’s time to turn to a nineteenth-century English chef named Charles Elmé Francatelli, who briefly cooked French food for Queen Victoria.* But before we get to the man of the moment, the meat of the matter, let’s pause for a moment and revisit Mr. Manfred Görlach, who undertook one of the […]

Categories: Books, Cookbooks, Cooking, England, English Cooking, France, French Cooking, Methods • Tags: A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes, Antonin Carême, Book of Household Management, British Food, Charles Elmé Francatelli, Colin Spencer, Cooks, English Cooking, French Cooking, Isabella Beeton, Louis Eustache Ude, Manfred Görlach, The French Chef

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

My book, due out September 15, 2013

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What’s Cookin’ Here

  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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