Gherkins & Tomatoes

Gherkins & Tomatoes

Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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Lemons – Tiny Cathedrals of Gold

April 6, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Lemons, their pitted, nay, prehistoric, skins secreting golden oil, Shielding sourness, evoking memories of a grandmother’s kitchen, A grandfather’s garden. Born in the East, fruitful India, A kiss of cold, albeit fleeting, spawns the yellow Immortalized  in stone, paint, and clay. A fruit reverenced, Blossoming from mountain and lake, Urging cooks to slice, pierce, and squeeze, Inspiring miracles among the pots and pans. Lemon curd … Lemon pie … Lemon chicken … Preserved lemons … Limoncello … Such richness! Pasta […]

Categories: Cooking, Italian Cooking, Italy, Lemons, Lent, Lit & Food, Photography, Poetry, Uncategorized • Tags: Food Photography, Italian Cooking, Lemons, Meditations, Mint, Pasta, Poetry

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St. Joseph's Day altar/table

Seduced by Spaghetti

June 17, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Continued from Still Mi Amore — Wild Abandonment Among the Tomatoes and Zucchini: Shall I not have intelligence with the earth? Am I not partly leaves and vegetable mould myself? ~~ Henry David Thoreau ~~ Only when I studied the culinary heritage of Catholicism did I pay deeper attention to Italian food. The saints’ days celebrations intrigued me, although today few people celebrate those days with as much reverence or fanfare as in the past. But the Italians seemed to […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Italian Cooking, Italy • Tags: Cookbooks, Evan Kleiman, Gorgonzola, Honey, Italian Cooking, Paola Pettini, Viana La Place

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Italy Sacra di San Michele

Still Mi Amore — Wild Abandonment Among the Tomatoes and Zucchini

June 14, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

A market is three women and a goose. ~~ Italian proverb ~~ I know that for many Italian women my nostalgic idea of Italian cooking would seem foreign, as alien as if I zoomed in from another planet. Louise DeSalvo makes that clear in her book Crazy in the Kitchen: Foods, Feuds, and Forgiveness in an Italian American Family as she debunks the myths of the happy Italian family. And the quiet testimony of an Italian-American friend of mine seconds […]

Categories: Beef, Cookbooks, Cooking, Italian Cooking • Tags: Beef, Cookbooks, Italian Cooking, Louise DeSalvo, Marlena de Blasi, Sacra di San Michele, Tuscan Beef Stew

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Pasta spinach roll

In a Kitchen Far, Far Away …

May 7, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Once upon a time, in a kitchen far, far away … A neophyte Italian cook opened up Marcella Hazan’s The Classic Italian Cook Book: The Art of Italian Cooking and the Italian Art of Eating and two handsome princes swore eternal love over an ethereal pasta roll stuffed with spinach and ricotta.* That’s how the story would begin, and end, in a fairy tale. [More about fairy tales and their real significance HERE].** But this is real life and what […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Cooking, Honduras, Italian Cooking, Italy, Pasta • Tags: Classic Italian Cook Book, Cookbooks, El Zamorano, Honduras, Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan, United Fruit Company

Mushroom risotto

The Pull of Italy: An Explanation of, or at Least a Discourse on, an Obsession

April 26, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Just what is it about Italy? The sheer, sheer beauty? Or … The turbulent history The grottoed mushroom-rank earth The Latin-infused language The ancientness The glimmering light The icy green water of northern lakes The needle-like cypress trees The deep phosphorescent colors of art The blue of the sea The dark wood floors and terra cotta tiles The flowers and the grape vines and the olive trees The spirituality mingling with ancient beliefs And food and cooking reflect all of […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Cooking, Italian Cooking, Italy • Tags: Bill Buford, Cookbooks, Enchanted April, Heat, Italian Cooking, Italy, Virginia Woolf

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Meatballs

Idylls of Cuisine, #60

April 25, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A photograph, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Beef, Cooking, Italian Cooking, Pasta, Photography • Tags: Beef, Food Photography, Italian Cooking, Italy, Meatballs

Christmas Schenone bread and love

Pandolce: From Liguria with Love, Thanks to Laura Schenone

December 22, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Laura Schenone, author of the soulful The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken and the scholarly (and prize-winning) A Thousand Years Over a Hot Stove, traveled back to Liguria for Christmas in 2007. From that trip came her perpetual Christmas gift to all of us, Pandolce. In an article in the December 2008 issue of SAVEUR Magazine, she teaches us how to make our own Pandolce in the old way, just in time for Christmas and the holiday season. Although the […]

Categories: Baking, Bread, Christmas, Cooking, Italian Cooking, Italy, Techniques • Tags: Christmas, Italian Cooking, Italy, Laura Schenone, Pan Dolce

Pasta encyclopedia cover

No Thanks to Marco Polo: An Encyclopedia of Italy’s Pasta Shapes

November 6, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Marco Polo returned to Italy from his Chinese travels in 1296. The myth, legend, what have you, credits him with introducing pasta into Italy’s culinary repertoire. But Marco Polo did NOT bring pasta to Italy. And 73-year-old Italian author Oretta Zanini de Vita wants you to know that, immediately, upfront and center. Zanini de Vita says, Dried pasta, the kind made with durum wheat, is found in Italy from about A.D. 800. It was in fact the Muslim occupiers of […]

Categories: Archaeology, Book Reviews, China, Italian Cooking, Italy, Local foods, Pasta, Reference • Tags: Archaeology, China, Encyclopedia of Pasta, Italian Cooking, Italy, Marco Polo, Oretta Zanini de Vita, Pasta

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Tuscan Year Romer

Elizabeth Romer’s Chronicle of Tuscan Agriculture

August 13, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Contemplating the impact of Food Network’s publishing juggernaut on the current food scene in America, I find myself turning backwards, to some of the “earlier” writers on food in Italy. Many of these people, like Elizabeth Romer in The Tuscan Year: Life and Food in an Italian Valley (1985), wrote of day-to-day practices, of times not generally recorded by local people. Romer, wife of archaeologist John Romer and a prolific co-writer with him on Egyptian and other ancient cultures, wrote […]

Categories: Agriculture, Cookbooks, Italian Cooking, Italy, Local foods • Tags: Agriculture, Cooks, Elizabeth Romer, Italian Cooking, Italy, Tacuina sanitatis, Tuscany

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Marlena de Blasi

The Hermetic Lady in the Palazzo: Marlena de Blasi

August 12, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Cookbook author and memoirist Marlena de Blasi does not seek the limelight, preferring instead to write her books in the shadows. The shadows, that is, of the great stone monuments of Italy, first San Marco in Venice and now a sixteenth-century palazzo in Orvieto in Umbria. De Blasi’s body of work includes A Taste of Southern Italy: Delicious Recipes and a Dash of Culture (2006, originally published as Regional Foods of Southern Italy, 1999), Regional Foods of Northern Italy: Recipes […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Italian Cooking, Italy • Tags: Cooks, Italian Cooking, Italy, Marlena de Blasi

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Borghese cookbook

Old News: Le Ricette per Cucina Raccolte dal Principe Don Paolo Borghese

June 27, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Le Ricette per Cucina Raccolte dal Principe Don Paolo Borghese (Recipes  from the Collection of Prince Don Paolo Borghese), a new cookbook published by the Ferragamo family of Italian shoe fame, sounds scrumptious. The eighteenth-century recipes come from family archives. According to the Vogue UK Website, the book will be available worldwide in September 2009 for £30.

Categories: Cookbooks, Italian Cooking, Italy • Tags: Cookbooks, Cooks, Ferragamo, Italian Cooking, Principe Paolo Borghese

Photo credit: Brandi Sims

Idylls of Cuisine #7

March 29, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A photograph and nothing else, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Photography • Tags: Food Photography, Italian Cooking, Italy

ravioli-recipe-cover

Life, Love, and Lost Raviolis

March 24, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The food memoir seemingly pops out everywhere these days. It’s the hot new genre in writing.  Some authors coin a phrase and tell a story better than others. Most bog down the reader right away, with dramatic and overwritten accounts of trauma suffered in the kitchen or in love,  unwrapping personal anecdotes best kept tightly coffined in foil like a rotten fish ready for the garbage. So M. F. K. Fisher they’re usually not. Fisher’s The Gastronomical Me set the […]

Categories: American Cooking, Food writing, Italian Cooking • Tags: Cooking, Cooks, Food, Food Memoirs, Hoboken, Italian Cooking, Laura Schenone, Ravioli

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idylls-of-cuisine-6

Idylls of Cuisine #5

March 15, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A photograph and nothing else, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Photography • Tags: Food Photography, Italian Cooking, Italy

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Wife of "Carnevale" in Puglia (Photo credit: Paolo Màgari)

Carnevale Cometh: Calzone

February 10, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

What of calzone? And its cousin panzerotti? As cousins will often do, both look alike, except for size. And both end up seated at the communal table for celebrations like Carnevale. Calzone comes from a Latin word, calceus, meaning shoe, and may have been in used in everyday speech beginning around 1170. Today, the accepted translation is “pant leg” or “trousers.” One can just imagine farmers and laborers walking to the fields with a nice, warm calzone wrapped in a […]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Pizza, Recipes • Tags: Calzone, Cooking, Fppd, Italian Cooking, Mardi Gras, Pizzerias

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cenci-012

Carnevale Cometh: Cenci By Any Other Name Would Taste as Sweet …

February 9, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Hereupon, a whole host of absurd figures surrounded him, pretending to sympathize in his mishap. Clowns and party-colored harlequins; orang-outangs; bear-headed, bull-headed, and dog-headed individuals; faces that would have been human, but for their enormous noses; one terrific creature, with a visage right in the centre of his breast; and all other imaginable kinds of monstrosity and exaggeration. These apparitions appeared to be investigating the case, after the fashion of a coroner’s jury, poking their pasteboard countenances close to the […]

Categories: Carnevale, Desserts, Italian Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Carnevale, Carnival, cenci, Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Mardi Gras

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Photo credit: Alberto Ferrero

Carnivale Cometh: Lasagne di Carnevale

February 6, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

And now for the food of Carnival, as interpreted by cooks in what is now Italy. (See previous post on Carnival for more history.) Greasy, fatty, protein-rich, oozing with cheese or sugar, the dishes created for Martedi Grasso (Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday) served a higher purpose than merely feeding hungry stomachs: the severe Lenten proscriptions of the Roman Catholic Church meant that the ingredients — meat, cheese, butter, sugar, fat, eggs — couldn’t be touched until the Gloria rang out […]

Categories: Cheese, Italian Cooking • Tags: Carnevale, Carnival, Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Lasagna, Mardi Gras, Recipes

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Photo credit: Alina Rigo

Carnevale Cometh

January 29, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Soon the streets of Venice will overflow with a flood — not of water, as usual — but of tourists and food. For soon the rituals of Carnevale, or Mardi Gras (also called Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday ) will once more surge into popular culture. The official date of Mardi Gras in 2009 falls on February 24. Mardi Gras, officially only one day on the liturgical calendar, is the term used by most people for a two-week period (or […]

Categories: Italian Cooking • Tags: Carnevale, Carnival, Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Nardi Gras, Recipes

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puglia-a-culinary-memoir

Puglia: A Culinary Memoir

December 29, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Santa Claus flat out forgot me this year. I knew instantly that the jolly old elf  passed me by when I scrounged around in my Christmas stocking. No lump of coal. But no copy of Maria Pignatelli Ferrante’s Puglia: A Culinary Memoir either. And this prize of a book  didn’t even make it into the tiny pile of presents on the floor under my Christmas tree. Maybe that’s because  the book is out of stock in most places. And many […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Italian Cooking • Tags: Cookbooks, Food, Italian Cooking

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conegliano-valdobbiadene

Prosecco Mi Amore

December 27, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Like Rodney Dangerfield, makers of Prosecco want more respect. If you respect Prosecco, take a little journey over to “Italian Makers of Prosecco Seek Recognition,” in the December 26, 2008 issue of The New York Times. So what seems to be the problem? Because prosecco is the name of a grape, like chardonnay or cabernet, anyone can use the name. Like cheeses, sausages, and breads, wines like Prosecco epitomize the blessings of locally produced food products. Journalist Amy Cortese says, […]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Wine • Tags: Italian Cooking, Italy, Prosecco, Wine

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feast-of-the-seven-fishes

Feast of the Seven Fishes (La Festa dei Sette Pesci)

December 21, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

If you like comic books, graphic novels, and cartoons, you’ll love Feast of the Seven Fishes: The Collected Comic Strip & Italian Holiday Cookbook. Let the author himself tell you what the book’s all about: “All I wanted to do was write a little romantic comedy about my family cooking fish on Christmas Eve. Little did I know what I’d unleashed – an acclaimed graphic novel, a festival, a movie – and now a blog – dedicated to keeping the […]

Categories: Book Reviews, Christmas, Italian Cooking • Tags: Book Reviews, Calamari, Christmas, Food, Italian Cooking, Squid

Pasta, The Taste of Hospitality

Cooking Italian Food — Rooted in the Past

October 14, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Note: For further reading on cooking, spirituality, and religion, check out my work-in-progress “Food, Spirituality, and Religion Bibliography,” which right now tends to lean a bit more toward Christianity, but will eventually reflect more in-depth aspects of other religious traditions. I find the first-hand experience of cooking delicious Italian food to be one of my callings in life, one of life’s endless riches. Finding the right recipe for the ingredients I have on hand, fussing with my tiny pantry space, […]

Categories: Bibliographies, Italian Cooking • Tags: Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Spirituality, St. Benedict

Mushrooms in All Their Glory (Photo credit: Katie Best)

THE FUNGUS AMONG US

October 3, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Mushrooms are not really food, but are relished to bully the stomach into further eating. ~~Seneca, Stoic Roman Statesman Toadstools, devil’s work, fairies’ rings, mysterious, deadly, the deeply superstitious people of medieval Europe applied all these monikers to mushrooms. Fungi they are, botanically. Everyone’s culinary favorite, they are not. Their names invite punsters to unite: an equally apt title for this article could be the one food writer Raymond Sokolov chose years ago for his Natural History magazine column on […]

Categories: French Cooking, Italian Cooking, Mushrooms, Recipes • Tags: Cooking, Food, French Cooking, Italian Cooking, Mushrooms, Recipes

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Pizza Up Close (Photo credit: C. Bertelsen)

Making Pizza Dough FAQs: A Slice of Pizza and History

September 30, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Frances: Have you ever made a pizza? Claire: … I suppose if I put my mind to it, yes, I could make one. … Frances: What would make you feel uncertain abut making one? After all, you say you’ve made bread before and and you’ve made things similar to tomato sauce. Claire: The toppings perhaps, I don’t know. I mean I used to do more cooking when I was at home and didn’t have any responsibilities and didn’t have to […]

Categories: Italian Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Cooking, Cooks, Food, Italian Cooking, Pizza, Pizza dough, Recipes

a16-cookbook-cover

Italian Cooking in Paradise: A16 is A-1

September 29, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

As a cookbook junkie — close to 200 of my 3500 cookbooks concern Italian cooking — I drool when books like Nate Appleman’s A16: Food + Wine show up. The cover alone is worth the $35.00 admission price, for the photo makes my soul cry out for the simplicity it represents. Not because anything’s sad about it. No, the spirit of the place and the food and the history and the beauty, all those things that make us human curls […]

Categories: Book Reviews, Cookbooks, Restaurants • Tags: Butternut squash, Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Italy, Nate Appleman, Soup

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White Beans (Used with permission.)

White Beans with Cream, Prosciutto, and Parmesan

September 14, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Autumn teases you, you know, with its chilly mid-September mornings, urging you to dream of sitting outside on cool evenings, wrapped lightly in woolen shawls, a bowl of hot bean soup nestled in your hands, a glass of Pinot Grigio resting on the small table next to you. Dreaming of a stone cottage in Italy’s Piedmont or a small crowded house in Rome, the smoke from the fireplace coating the walls, the whitewash of centuries peeping through. Listening, as it […]

Categories: Beans, Italian Cooking, Pork, Recipes, Soup • Tags: Beans, Cooking, Food, Italian Cooking, Recipes, Soup

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The Metamorphosis of Italian Cooking in America: The Myth and the Reality

August 11, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Typical Italian-American dishes that one will not find on menus in Italy: Stuffed Shells Penne Alla Vodka Spaghetti w/Garlic and Oil Penne Ala Bolognese Baked Ziti Pasta and Broccoli Pasta Primavera Macaroni and Cheese Fettuccine Alfredo Vegetable Lasagna Chicken Cutlet Parmigiana Chicken Francese Chicken Cacciatore Cheesecake Italian Rum Cake And the litany of differences continues on, reality blurring with myths and stereotypes. Italian-American cooking differs a great deal from Italian cooking as known in the various regions of Italy. The […]

Categories: Bibliographies, Food writing, Italian Cooking • Tags: Bibliographies, Cookbooks, Food, Italian Cooking

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Becoming Italian

August 11, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I’m hardly Italian. Nowhere near it. With a family tree first planted in America in 1632, a seedling from a village not far from Norwich, England, we’ve been in the New World so long that we have no ethnic ties or traditions at all. But for some reason, Italian food and culture and history tapped something in my soul. Through my pots and pans, I’ve adopted Italy’s cooking. And dreams of idyllic Italian style. My house walls glow terra-cotta red in the morning sun. Rows of rosemary, oregano, and mint sprawl in my garden. And I collect Italian cookbooks like a money-mad King Midas wallowing in gold coins.

Categories: Beef, Food Columns, Italian Cooking, Pasta, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: Beef, Cooks, Food, Italian Cooking, Pasta, Tomatoes

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Mediterranean Olive Grove

Olive Sauce

August 1, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Add Olive Sauce to ragu or marinara for a different layer of flavor. Use on crostini or bruschetta. Roast beef, pork, and chicken taste extra special with a dollop of Olive Sauce on the side. Black Olive Tapenade Makes 2 cups ¾ cup oil-cured black olives 6 canned flat anchovy fillets 2 T. shredded fresh basil leaves 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and mashed 1 t. crushed fennel seeds 1 T. grated orange zest ¼-1/2 t. hot red pepper flakes […]

Categories: Fish, Italian Cooking, Olives, Recipes • Tags: Anchovies, Capers, Food, Italian Cooking, Olives, Recipes, Sauces

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

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What’s Cookin’ Here

  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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