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Gherkins & Tomatoes

Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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Another Holy Trinity of the Kitchen: The Magic of Milk, Eggs, and White Flour

September 21, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Every time I pour crêpe batter into my 8-inch Teflon*-lined crêpe pan, I see deep scratches, the ones that Habiba made with the fork she used while cooking a three-egg cheese-and-herb omelet one wintry Moroccan morning. The scratches don’t affect the pan’s performance, just as wounds and scars don’t fundamentally change who we are and how we function in the world. Pots and pans, like sugar-burned hands and fingers cut by dull knives, bear pale scars. These blemishes remind me […]

Categories: Agriculture, Cattle, Cooking, Eggs, France, French Cooking, Local foods, Milk, Morocco, Photography, Techniques • Tags: Crêpes, Eggs, Flour, France, French Cooking, Meditations, Milk, Photography

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France HUGE baguette old picture

Telling Stories, About French Bread

August 24, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Even years later, long after someone took this photo, I can see this young boy – I’ll call him Jacques –  standing in the street, lugging his heavy basket made of tree branches, no doubt the same ones that Jacques’s father might use on the poor boy’s legs if he doesn’t sell all the bread that day. Look at his shoes, it’s hard to tell, but is one of the soles higher than the other? And his toes, poking out […]

Categories: Bread, France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: Bread, Elliott Erwitt, France, French Cooking, Photography

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Photo credit: C. Bertelsen

Where Rosemary Flourished, the Woman Ruled*

August 12, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I cut the rosemary this morning, the lack of love and attention these past few weeks plainly written in its leggy tendrils, reaching too far for the sun, like arms longing for something to hug. Rosemary, the herb of remembrance. What do I remember when the piney, resinous odor of rosemary sticks to my fingers and leaves a lingering perfume on everything I touch? I remember Morocco, where I lived in a very modern house, its kitchen festooned with orange and […]

Categories: Africa, Beef, Cooking, France, French Cooking, Moroccan Cooking, Morocco, Photography • Tags: France, French Cooking, Herbs, Remembrance, Rosemary

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Dana Polan French Chef

Julia Child’s “The French Chef, ” by Dana Polan

July 17, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

“a history of early American television telescoped through the persona and history of Julia Child. . . . fascinating . . .” When you walk the streets of Cambridge, Massachusetts, you can’t miss the lingering traces of heroes and history. From the names of the men who brought you the Boston Tea Party to the dead in the Old Burying Ground near Harvard Square, the past perfumes the air. Nearly everywhere you’ll see pictures of a more modern hero, too. […]

Categories: Book Reviews, Cookbooks, Cooking, Food News, France, French Cooking, Uncategorized • Tags: Book Reviews, Dana Polan, Dione Lucas, Florence Hanford, Food Television, France, French Chef, French Cooking, Julia Child, Nigella Lawson, Paul Child

Macarons 3

Macarons – Food of Dreams and Fairy Tales

July 11, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Macarons. Truly an example of “Don’t try this at home.” But how I longed to recreate the taste and the crunch of the macarons I greedily ate as often as I could, when I passed that fairy-tale bakery on the Rue de Rivoli, close to the Hotel de Ville metro stop: Maison Georges Larnicol. Although they’re kissing cousins of a sorts, modern French macarons don’t much resemble American macaroons. The extra “O” has nothing to do with it. Macarons likely […]

Categories: Book Reviews, Cookbooks, Cookies, Cooking, Desserts, French Cooking, Uncategorized • Tags: Bérengère Abraham, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Macarons

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French cooks stoned duck

Un vrai canard: Duck and French Culinary Traditions

March 21, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Do you associate ducks, along with snails and frogs, with traditional French cuisine? If so, you’re hardly alone. I do, too. And I often wonder, like many of us who write about food, just how some of these traditions begin. I think the answers might appall or thrill us. Last week, I read an old news story about Michel Rouyer, a French farmer from La Gripperie-Saint-Symphorien who tried to rid his ducks of worms by feeding them marijuana. I couldn’t help but […]

Categories: Cooking, Duck, France, French Cooking • Tags: Ducks, France, French Cooking, Marijuana

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Photo credit: Kumar McMillan

Tasting France in Senegal

March 9, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The ocean there, it’s infinite, a place where horizon and water meet like a seam in a dress, a little bump and then smoothness again. Sunlight pierces the dawn’s fading blackness and, overhead, the parasitic gulls swirl, their curved yellow beaks moving incessantly, filling the air with their own peculiar songs. And then human voices join in, throbbing, shutting out the pounding noise of the waves. Senegalese fishermen singing Men, women, and children rush to the boats, thrusting their hands […]

Categories: African Cooking, France, French Cooking, Senegal • Tags: African Cooking, Fish, France, French Cooking, Mullet, Senegal, West Africa

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French cooks horsemeat parody

Eating Black Beauty,* Or, Horsemeat, a Taboo That Became a French Stereotype

March 1, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Taboo: A custom prohibiting or restricting a particular practice or forbidding association with a particular person, place, or thing. One of the most emotional experiences of my childhood came when I read Anna Sewell’s Black Beauty, a story of a mistreated English horse. I remember sobbing for hours in the way that children can when they experience something so hurtful that only tears will do. Later, I saw a movie based on the book and the same thing happened, the […]

Categories: Asia, Cooking, Europe, Food writing, France, French Cooking • Tags: Culinary History, Emile Decroix, Food History, France, French Cooking, Henriette Davidis, Horsemeat

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Photo credit: C. Bertelsen

Preserved Lemons: The New French Staple?

January 23, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Meats preserved in wine become dry and nourishing: they dry out because of the wine; they are nourishing because of the flesh. Preserve din vinegar, they ferment less, because of the vinegar, and are quite nourishing. Meats preserved in salt are less nourishing, as salt deprives them of moisture, but they become lean, dry out, and are sufficiently laxative. Hippocrates, On Regimen in Acute Diseases  A few days ago, contemplating some minutiae or other on French culinary history, I came across […]

Categories: Cooking, Food Science, France, French Cooking, Lemons, Moroccan Cooking, Morocco, Nutrition, Science of cooking • Tags: Culinary History, Food History, French Cooking, Kitty Morse, Lactic acid fermentation, Larousse Gastronomique, Lemons, Meyer lemons, Moroccan Cooking, Preserved Lemons

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Art credit: Pierre Marcel

The Apples of France: What’s the (Hi)Story?: Speculations about the Origins of Apples in France (Part II)

January 6, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The frosty morning mists of early autumn roll through the hills, swirling like a white cotton-candy carpet at the base of the gnarly old trees. Branches creak and sway with the weight of the fist-sized apples, some blushing like tiny faces, or red-cheeked as it were from the chill of the windy gusts. So much a part of European culture and cuisine, apples seem to be a native food, an ingredient in so many traditional dishes. But the apples we […]

Categories: Apples, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Methods, Photography • Tags: Apicius, Apples, Culinary History, Food History, France, French Cooking, French culinary history, Kazakhstan, La Varenne, Le Menagier de Pari, Marianne Mulon, Tractatus de modo preparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria, Vivendier

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Braeburns (Photo credit: C. Bertelsen)

Apples in France: What’s the (Hi)Story? (Part I)

January 3, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

You might say that apples and I have a special relationship – apple sauce and apple cakes and apple pies. I grew up climbing a majestic apple tree in my yard and adored the smell of the fluffy pink blossoms when spring finally swooped down on eastern Washington state and all the snow melted. One day when I was a young child, my father and his boss at the nearby university grafted a couple of branches from different apple trees […]

Categories: Apples, France, French Cooking • Tags: Apple History, Culinary History, Food History, France, French Cooking, French cuisine, Lamotte-Beuvron, Tarte Aux Pommes à la Solognote, Tarte Tatin

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Strasbourg in the Cold (Used by permission.)

Bringing Home the Bacon … and the Onions and the Cheese: Tarte Flambée, Flammekueche, or Alsatian Pizza Bread

December 18, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

One cold, rainy day in October, I sat in front of a fireplace in a  small weinstub, or bistro, in Strasbourg, France, listening to my growling stomach. I couldn’t face another round of choucroute, that heavy Alsatian ode of love to the pig and the cabbage. On the greasy menu, fingerprints from previous guests clearly visible on the laminated plastic, one dish stood out: Flammekueche, also known as “Tarte Flambée.” I ordered it. And a bottle of Alsatian Riesling, never […]

Categories: Food writing, French Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Alsace, Bacon, Bread, Cuisine Francaise, Culinary History, Flammekueche, Food, Food History, France, French Cooking, Tarte Flambee

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Juan Diego

December 12: The Virgin of Guadalupe

December 10, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Patron Saint of Mexico and the Americas Mexican novelist Carlos Fuentes once said that “…one may no longer consider himself a Christian, but you cannot truly be considered a Mexican unless you believe in the Virgin of Guadalupe.” Apocryphal or not, the story of the Virgin of Guadalupe makes fascinating reading. And the food’s pretty good, too, like most feast-day food tends to be. But first a little history. An Aztec convert, Saint Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin*, first saw the Virgin […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Mexico • Tags: Atole, Cooking, Culinary History, Food, Food History, France, French Cooking, Mexico, Recipes, Saints' Days, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe

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French cooks cover Breton peasant

Memoirs of a Breton Peasant: Sifting Through the Nostalgia

November 21, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

It’s not often that the words of poor peasants appear in print. And when they do, it’s a cause for rejoicing, especially for scholars pertaining to the Braudel/Certeau school of the history of daily life. What’s more, our current nostalgic longings for a more paradisiacal past evaporate quickly in the light of these often ruthlessly real portrayals of life. Even though he’s been dead for over 100 years, nineteenth-century Breton peasant Jean-Marie Déguignet would be rubbing his hands together in glee […]

Categories: Book Reviews, France, French Cooking, Reference • Tags: France, French Cooking, Jean-Marie Déguignet, Memoirs, Memoirs of a Breton Peasant, Peasants

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Photo credit: C. Bertelsen

Worshipping Different Gods … The French (Food) Reformation

November 2, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

People throughout history reveal their preoccupations through their architecture, artifacts, and the written word. These aspects reflect what matters to societies at various times. It comes down, in a way, to questions of taste, not just alimentary, but cultural and moral. The fashions, the trends, the modes of the day pass and morph into others as the years go by. Like all ideas, current preoccupations – with simple, natural, sustainable, green – mirror the concerns of a certain segment of […]

Categories: Art, French Cooking, Local foods, Locavores, Photography • Tags: Aix-en-Provence, Cafés, Choir stalls, France, French Cooking, Paris

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French cooks Turbotiere

For French Cooks Who …

October 31, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

have everything – or nearly everything – in their batterie de cuisine. A Turbotière, for cooking, well, turbots. Available, the pan, that is, at E. DEHILLERIN in Paris ( 18 et 20, rue Coquillière – 51, rue Jean- Jacques Rousseau, 1st arrondissement) for the princely sum of nearly 570 euros ($826.25). Considering the size of turbots, the price shouldn’t surprise you too much. And here’s an old pan for the same purpose, for comparison.

Categories: Chefs, Cooking, Cooking equipment, France, French Cooking • Tags: Copper cookware, France, French Cooking, Turbotière

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French cooks armagnac vieux

L’Armagnac Vieux of the Tour d’Argent (and More)

October 29, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Beauty comes in many guises. Appropriately for a restaurant in full view of Notre Dame and its mythical hunchback, the dining room of the Tour d’Argent in Paris resembles the prow of a ship sailing off into the sunset. Some critics say its reputation for good food departed some time ago. An auction in December 2009 cleaned out its wine cellar, the better offerings hidden from the Nazis by a false wall built during their occupation of France. These ugly, […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: Armagnac, France, French Cooking, Paris, Tour d'Argent

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French cooks colonial chocolate

The Turtle Wins, Not the Rabbit

October 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Leisurely Sunday lunches provide only one example of the difference between French and American ways of approaching life. Although many Parisian women often walk very fast along the sidewalk and drivers usually screech to a halt when the little green figures pop up at  street crossings, the truth of the matter is that a slower pace prevails in nearly every endeavor. Take Monoprix, for example. Now it is true that Monoprix is not at all like Walmart, but for the […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: Chocolate, France, French Cooking, Monoprix, Paris, Shopping

French cooks hot chocolate

Chocolate Chaud / Hot Chocolate

October 13, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Hot chocolate in Paris is like nothing else.

Categories: Chocolate, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: Angelina's, France, French Cooking, Hot Chocolate, Paris

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French cooks washing machine

The Perils of Paris, or, How to Use a French Washing Machine and Live to Tell the Tale

October 11, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The French do food well. Scenery, too. History? Bien sûr! Washing machines? Mais non! Frankly, when it comes to household appliances in France, I’d rather walk the plank with a pirate than turn a knob. I’m quite mechanically illiterate and so I’ve never stayed in a Paris apartment where I felt truly comfortable with the machinery. And my current garret offers no respite from the annoying peculiarities of French washing machines. It’s like the monster under the bed that I […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: France, French Cooking, French engineering, Washing machines

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And mine ... (Photo credit: Mallory )

In the Parisian Kitchen

September 30, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Many years ago, when I first fell in love with Paris, I stayed in hotels and suffered through agonizingly mediocre dinners in nameless bistros, always longing for a kitchen of my own, to paraphrase Virginia Woolf. When I finally realized that renting an apartment made more sense monetarily and culinarily, why then I invested in a string bag and gaping basket with a maw like a lion’s, just for “le shopping” that occupies many Parisians’ waking thoughts. But what I […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: France, French Cooking, Kitchens, Paris

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French cooks lavender stalks

Lavender, France’s Balm for the Soul

September 26, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The lavender lingers on my sloping hillside, autumn rain running in rivulets between the dying leaves. At summer’s peak, the purple flowers tantalized the bees and butterflies and me, the glorious scent perfuming the air of evening and morning both. No lambs frolicked in the lavender this year, but maybe someday a friend’s weanlings will lie in the hot sun, their tails flicking, noses pressed to the mauve blossoms, savoring the taste of this ancient nard. Like the lambs, I […]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Herbs, Photography, Poetry • Tags: Flowers, France, French Cooking, Herbs, Lavender, Photography

Belleville Metro Station

Belleville, Paris, France: II

September 22, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, Algeria, France, French Cooking, Photography • Tags: Belleville, France, French Cooking, Paris, Photography

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Photo credit: Cecily Upton

Belleville, Paris, France: I

September 19, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Belleville, the site of my upcoming study in France, filled with other worlds and other tongues, other ways and other dreams, but all French, just the same.

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, Agriculture, France, French Cooking, Local foods, Photography • Tags: Africa, African Cooking, Belleville, France, French Cooking, Open-Air Markets, Paris

Market in Cordes (Photo credit: Crazy Farmer)

The Joy of France: Open-Air Markets II

September 15, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Categories: Agriculture, France, French Cooking, Gardens, Local foods, Photography • Tags: France, French Cooking, Local foods, Markets, Open-Air Markets, Photography

Sallanches, France (Photo credit: Sally Payne)

The Joy of France: Open-Air Markets I

September 12, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Markets in France reflect a long tradition of local foods, now sadly giving way to supermarkets like Franprix, Monoprix, and Intermarché, but still holding their own. With any justice at all, such markets will continue as the local foods movement takes firmer root.

Categories: Agriculture, France, French Cooking, Gardens, Local foods, Photography • Tags: France, French Cooking, Markets, Open-Air Markets, Photography

Van Gogh The Potato Eaters

Hunger’s Fearsome Power: The Body and Soul of Vincent van Gogh

August 31, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

(For more about France and artists, see “Food for Art’s Sake: eating with the Impressionists.” Ask people if they’ve heard of Vincent van Gogh, and they’ll say, “Oh yeah, that crazy artist, the dude who cut his ear off and gave it to some hooker.” True. Using a straight razor, van Gogh sliced off part of his left ear, wrapped it up in a white napkin, and presented it to a prostitute named Rachel in Arles, France. Crazy as mudbugs […]

Categories: Art, France, Paintings • Tags: Ancel Keys, France, French Cooking, Hunger, Knut Hamsun, Paul Gauguin, Starvation, Vincent van Gogh

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French cooks G. Vassal poulet

Vivre en l’Outre-Mer, or, The Trials of Living in French Congo ca. 1923: Part III

August 22, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Once settled into their bungalow overlooking Stanley Pool in Brazzaville, the Vassals faced the problem of hiring household help, especially a cook. Unlike many Europeans, they found a cook who knew his business, of whom Gabrielle wrote: I am glad, too, to have a change from German cooking.* Our primitive black Matamba is far superior to the fair, civilized Anna we have left behind [in Germany]. In such extremely primitive surroundings, I come to a meal without any expectation of […]

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, Chefs, Cooking, French Cooking • Tags: Africa, Brazzaville, Cooks, France, French colonial empire, French Colonies, French Cooking, Gabrielle M. Vassal, Life in French Congo

French cooks Bazille raspberries

Family Reunions: The Real and the Ideal

August 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

As Tolstoy wrote, “Happy families are all alike; every unhappy family is unhappy in its own way,” and that is never truer when it comes to family reunions. There’s something rather poignant about pictures of family reunions – they chronicle the passing of time and people. But they don’t reveal the tensions and tight lips and twitchy fists that crop up at these periodic gatherings of dozens of personalities bound by blood and  DNA and fumblings under long-gone sheets. Instead, […]

Categories: Art, France, French Cooking, Paintings • Tags: Family reunions, France, Frédéric Bazille, French Cooking, Impressionists

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Operating room, Libreville Hospital

Vivre en l’Outre-Mer, or, The Trials of Living in French Congo ca. 1923: Part II

August 11, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Like many writers of her era, Gabrielle M. Vassal tended not to be very complimentary of Africans in Life in French Congo (1925) and compared them negatively and constantly to the Asians she’d known during her sojourns in Vietnam and China. She recorded her experiences during a trip to Libreville early during her stay in A.E.F. , before she and her husband settled in a bungalow in Brazzaville, saying about a luncheon meal served at the hospital there: At 12 […]

Categories: Africa, Cooking, French Cooking • Tags: Africa, Brazzaville, French colonial empire, French Colonies, French Congo, French Cooking, Gabrielle M. Vassal, Libreville

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French cooks G. Vassal cover

Vivre en l’Outre-Mer, or, The Trials of Living in French Congo ca. 1923: Part I

August 8, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

When the French government appointed Dr. Joseph Vassal, Englishwoman’s Gabrielle Vassal’s French husband, Head of Health Services for Equatorial French Africa (A.E.F.), he exclaimed happily to her, “Je suis nommé en A.E.F.” Naturally she asked, “What’s A.E.F.?” So he replied “Afrique Equatoriale Francaise,” and pointed to Gabon, Tchad, Oubangi-Chari, and the Congo, with its capital at Brazzaville. And that is how she started on the journey that she recorded in minute, if somewhat racially biased, detail in Mon séjour au […]

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, France, French Cooking • Tags: Africa, Brazzaville, Colonialism, Congo, France, French colonial empire, French Cooking, Gabrielle M. Vassal, Natural History Museum, Oubangi-Chari, Tchad

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French cooks Annals of Caliphs' Kitchens

Mezze … and You Get a Curfew with That, Too

August 1, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

In Haiti, the earthquake of January 12, 2010 destroyed numerous lives and many structures, including Petionville’s cathedral and central plaza. Sadly, the people of Haiti still are suffering, from the effects of the earthquake and from a long tortured history. Like so many former French possessions, Haiti—once called France’s “Pearl of the Antilles”—still looks to France for many things, including food. The following story recalls other difficult days in Haiti, the tumultuous months and years after Baby Doc’s flight into exile […]

Categories: Arab cooking, Eggplant, France, French Cooking • Tags: Arab cooking, Baba Ghanouj, Baby Doc, French Cooking, Haiti, Le Phoenicia, Lebonese Cooking, New Book of Middle Eastern Food, Petionville

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Celebration! With Champagne …

July 25, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Gherkins & Tomatoes / Cornichons & Tomates celebrates an anniversary in a couple of days, and I would like to thank all readers — old and new — for their ongoing and strong support. A special thanks goes to friends and family, who keep me going by saying nice things and bringing me champagne. This post brings the total number of posts to 751 since July 28, 2008. Imagine that, three years! So join me for a glass or two […]

Categories: Cooking, Food writing, France, French Cooking, Holidays, Wine • Tags: Anniversaries, Champagne, Food Blogs, France, French Cooking, French cuisine

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Le Cordon Bleu Paris Today

Dreaming of Le Cordon Bleu Paris

July 25, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

When you dream, dream big. But remember that dreams mean a lot of hard work. People might help you realize your dreams by repeatedly nudging you forward or opening a door for you or mentioning an opportunity, but only you can make the dream happen. And sometimes  if you help others with their dreams, they achieve their dreams and goals because they do the hard work and they follow through — you just provide the encouragement, the elbow in the […]

Categories: Cooking, France, French Cooking, Photography, Spinach • Tags: Boudin Blanc, Caul Fat, Champagne Ardenne, Chocolate & Zucchini, Cordon Bleu, Culinary Schools, France, French Cooking, Julia Child, Paris, Rethel, Spinach Quenelles

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The Weird, Different, and Just Plain Interesting Restaurants of Paris: A Photo Gallery

July 18, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Like many of you, I dream about being in France. A lot. And, of course, I daydream about eating in Paris, in spite of naysayers who point their compasses at other, more culinarily au courant corners of the globe. I’m already making lists of culinary adventures in preparation for my grant-sponsoredjourney this fall, doing research in Paris and Aix-en-Provence. The following are but just a few of the places I’m imagining …

Categories: France, French Cooking, Photography, Restaurants • Tags: Food Photography, France, French Cooking, French cuisine, Paris, Photography, Restaurants

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French cooks Bob's grits

Grits, Georgia, and Escaoutoun on My Mind

July 7, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Big Hominy Grits (Photo credit: James Bridle) These days, when you drive through the endless piney woods of low-country Georgia and South Carolina, you will see fields of corn, and not so much cotton. And, if you’re lucky when you stop for breakfast, there will be grits on the menu. Not just any old grits, not instant, God forbid, but the real deal: stone-ground little bitty bits of corn flecked with chaff and germ. People who grew up with grits […]

Categories: African Cooking, American Cooking, French Cooking • Tags: Arthur Barlowe, Escaoutoun, Espelette pepper, Florence Fabricant, France, French Cooking, Gascony, Grits, Hélène Darroze, Maize, Mushrooms, Périgord, Southern cooking, Walter Raleigh

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French cooks Louis VI death bust

Obesity and the Birth of France: Louis the Fat and Centralization of Power

May 22, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Nothing is new under the sun, including the problems of obesity. Is obesity ever a good thing? What if someone told you that obesity, in essence, led to what we now know as the nation of France? It throws French food into a whole new light, actually. If you believe the comments of Abbot Suger in his “selective biography” — or better said “panegyric” — of France’s Capetian king, Louis VI or “Louis the Fat” (Louis le Gros in French), […]

Categories: France, French Cooking • Tags: Abbot Suger, Cuisine Francaise, French Cooking, Ile-de-France, Louis le Gros, Louis the Fat, Louis VI

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French cooks Leslie French Domestic

The Cookbooks on Their Shelves: The First English-Language French Cookbooks in the United States, or, Who was Sulpice Barué?

May 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Much has been made of Thomas Jefferson’s influence on the “Frenchification” of cuisine in the young United States and in American diplomatic circles. Just take a look at “The French Touch,” a chapter in Even Jones’s American Food: The Gastronomic Story (1990) or Karen Hess’s “Thomas Jefferson’s Table: Evidence and Influences,” in Dining at Monticello (2005). But, as we have seen, other factors — including the hiring of French chefs by the British upper-class and the arrival of the French […]

Categories: Chefs, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Reference • Tags: Cuisine Francaise, Eliza Leslie, France, French Cooking, French Domestic Cookery, La Petite Cuisiniere Habile, Louis Eustache Ude, Madame Louise-Auguste B.-Utrecht-Friedel, Sulpice Barué, The French Cook, Vincent La Chapelle

French cooks escoffier

Auguste Escoffier: Le Guide Culinaire, Revised

May 16, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

New, revised version of Escoffier’s premier work, unabridged fourth edition from 1921. In English, glory be. Translated from the 1921 Fourth Edition, this revision includes all-new Forewords by Heston Blumenthal, chef-owner of the Michelin three-star-rated Fat Duck restaurant, and Chef Tim Ryan, President of The Culinary Institute of America, along with Escoffier’s original Forewords, a memoir of the great chef by his grandson Pierre, and more than 5,000 narrative recipes for all the staples of French cuisine. Now that’s enough […]

Categories: Books, Chefs, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Reference • Tags: Auguste Escoffier, Chefs, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

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What’s Cookin’ Here

  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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