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Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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Arab France Coller

The Lost Arabs of Marseille: Food, Family, and France

June 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

In his  timely Arab France: Islam and the Making of Modern Europe, 1798-1831 (2011), Ian Coller writes of the Arab families associated with Ya’qub Hanna, an Egyptian, a Copt and first non-French general who’d served with  Napoleon Bonaparte in his military campaigns in Egypt. The cover, I believe, was chosen to highlight the idea of the Arab “Other.” The artist, Anne Louis Girodet de Roucy-Trioson (1767 – 1824) titled it “Portrait of Mustapha” and painted it in 1819. These families […]

Categories: Africa, Chicken, France, French Cooking • Tags: Chicken, Egypt, France, French cuisine, Immigration, Marseille, Molokhiyya, Paris

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Scenes from La France Profonde

January 23, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[Unless otherwise noted, all photos by C. Bertelsen]

Categories: Art, Chicken, Cooking, France, French Cooking, Mushrooms, Photography • Tags: Chanterelles, Cuisine Francaise, France, French Cooking, Mushrooms, Pomegranates

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Francophonie map

Inroads of Language, Basted with the Stiff-Necked Grip of French Cuisine

December 27, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The reach of France’s colonial empire extended far beyond a few fur trappers and Hollywood’s stereotype of exhausted  men, rubbing at their scraggly beards, cursing their conscription into the Foreign Legion. Language, not just nationality, impacted millions of people over the centuries. And, I think, cuisine. Food came with that language and made a dent that I sensed very strongly when I lived in Morocco, Haiti, and Burkina Faso, all French-influenced former colonies, all imbued with an essence every bit […]

Categories: Art, Chicken, France, Haiti, Paintings • Tags: Auguste Escoffier, Cartes, Chicken Fritters, France, Francophonie, French colonial empire, Haiti, L’Empire colonial français, Maps, Marinad ak Poulet, Marinade de Volaille

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Johnston Mireille

Cooking with Mushrooms: Chicken and Walnuts and Baby Bellas, Oh My!

October 7, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I went wild over the cheap chicken thighs at my local Kroger, dumping package after package into my grocery cart. And as I sniffed the seductive odor of pumpkin pies emanating from the bakery, I composed a menu in my head that shouted “It’s FALL, finally!” Mushrooms, walnuts, shallots joined the chicken in the paper grocery bag and I hurried home, enjoying the sporadic spots of leaf color as I wound my way up the mountain. Fall is not just […]

Categories: Chicken, Cooking, Europe, France, French Cooking, Mushrooms • Tags: Chicken, France, French Cooking, Mushroom, Poultry, Walnut

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peanuts-1

Not Nuts (The Natural History and Far-Flung Adventures of the Lowly Peanut)

July 26, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

A nguba is an arachide is a cacahuete. Or Gedda, French, and Spanish for “pea‑nut,” if you prefer. Arachis hypogaea looks like a nut, tastes like a nut, but is actually not a nut at all. More like a legume or bean. The name “groundnut” tries to get the thing situated correctly but even that is incorrect. Botanically, peanuts belong to the beans/legumes clan and are NOT nuts. Gastronomically, peanuts can’t compete with those culinary wunderkind, caviar or truffles. But peanuts don’t aspire to knighthood or a title. In the U.S., peanuts usually take the form of peanut butter or salty snacks. However, peanuts have both an ancient history and a tremendous potential in the cookpot, nobility or not.

Categories: Africa, Chicken, Food Columns, Nuts, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: Africa, Food, George Washington Carver, Peanuts, Pork, Recipes, Spices

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Tomatoes on the Vine (Photo courtesy of L. Wilcoxen)

Tomatoes, Dust, and a Tasty Soupçon of Africa, Too

July 20, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

My nose burned a little and an odd sensation on my forehead no doubt meant more freckles popping out. I didn’t care. I sat right where I wanted to be on that late August day, in the dirt between two rows of leafy tomato plants. Red globes of all sizes dangled like Christmas ornaments from the plants, the vines sinking into the dust from all that ripe weight.

Categories: Africa, Chicken, Chile Peppers, Food Columns, Recipes, Tomatoes • Tags: Africa, Chicken, Food, Habanero, Hot Peppers, Recipes, Tomatoes

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Persian food 15

The Artful Pomegranate

November 5, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Guarded treasure, honeycomb partitions, Richness of flavour, Pentagonal architecture. The rind splits; seeds fall– Crimson seeds in azure bowls, Or drops of gold in dishes of enamelled bronze. –André Gide in Les Nourritures Terrestres (trans. Dorothy Bussy) Like the pomegranate itself, so ripe and bursting with seeds, the history of this berry-like fruit reveals more and more the deeper one looks into it. The myths, the legends, and the journeys of the pomegranate serve as an archetypal case of plant […]

Categories: Arab cooking, Chicken, Cooking, Poultry, Spain • Tags: Chicken, Iran, Khoresh-e Fessenjan, Pomegranates, Poultry

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Simla, 1850s

Summer Fare, or, Steamroller Chicken

August 17, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Today, when the throbbing heat of a summer day might mean grabbing a salad at the local deli, it is hard to realize that in the past people conjured up other solutions for food on the days when sweat poured off of brows like tiny streams rushing to meet a river. Everyone knows that the dog days of summer used to lead to a flurry of canning and preserving, an all-out assault on bacteria, the eternal enemies of freshness. But […]

Categories: American Cooking, Chicken, Cookbooks, English Cooking, India • Tags: British Raj, Chris Casson Madden, Cooks, Elizabeth David, Hill Stations, India, Judith Olney, Simla, Steamroller Chicken, Summer Cooking, Summer Food

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Chicken scalder

Anyone Can Build a Whizbang Chicken Scalder (Even You!)

June 13, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

From the back cover of Herrick Kimball’s book, Anyone Can Build a Whizbang Chicken Scalder: Every small-farm and backyard poultry producer needs a good scalder to quickly and efficiently scald their homegrown poultry prior to plucking. Precise scalding translates to fast, complete, and easy plucking of feathers. But high-performance ready-made scalding equipment is much too expensive for your average small-scale poultry producer to justify. And no one has every come up with plans for an easy to make, relatively inexpensive, […]

Categories: Agriculture, Chicken, Poultry • Tags: Chicken, Herrick Kimball, Poultry Farming

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Pepperpot Soup

Adding More Spices to Your Life

May 15, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Jessica B. Harris, chronicler of many things African, at least when it comes to cooking anyway,  includes a recipe for “Traditional Peppersoup Spice Mixture” in her book, The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent (Simon & Schuster, 1998). She says, “I have included this recipe so that you can see the world of new tastes that are yet to be discovered.” Eleven years on, we are still doing that discovering. The peppersoup spice formula reads as follows: 1 tablespoon atariko […]

Categories: Africa, African Cooking, Chicken, Nigeria, Recipes • Tags: Africa, African Cooking. Chicken, Peppersoup, Recipes, Spices

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Chicken in Red Palm Oil (Photo credit: John Tolva)

Palm Oil, Chicken In

May 9, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Nigerian novelist Chinua Achebe once wrote that proverbs are the palm oil with which words are eaten. A recipe for chicken in red palm oil: CHICKEN IN RED PALM OIL Serves 4-6 ¼ c. red palm oil 1 chicken, cut up for frying ½ t. ground coriander 1 t. sea salt 1 t. dried orange peel 1 t. dried minced garlic 1/4 t. ground hot red pepper (cayenne) Melt the red palm oil in a large cast-iron skillet. Mix the […]

Categories: Africa, Chicken, Oil Palm, Recipes • Tags: African Cooking, Chicken, Chinua Achebe, Palm Oil

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alice-de-bryene

Dame Alice de Bryene’s Household Book: Easter 1413

April 8, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

One of the most spectacular “finds” related to English medieval history, The Household Book of Dame Alice de Bryene (1931 edition) provides a detailed glimpse into the daily life of an English gentry household over the period 1412 – 1413, down to the exact food purchases and the price paid. It tells of widowed Dame Alice de Bryene during one of her seventy-five years. That year Easter fell on April 23, a late date, and Dame Alice served the following […]

Categories: Chicken, Easter, English Cooking, Middle Ages, Recipes • Tags: Chicken, Cooking, Curye on Inglish, Dame Alice de Bryene, Easter, Food, Forme of Cury, Middle Ages

ronaldreagan-2

All the Presidents’ Tables: Ronald Reagan’s First Inaugural Lunch Menu 1981

January 12, 2009 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Reagan’s first inauguration boasted the honor of being the first inauguration celebrated on the west front of the U.S. Capitol. Held in Statuary Hall, Ronald Reagan’s 1981 luncheon featured a “California Cuisine” menu. The U.S. Air Force String Quartet and  U.S. Army Strings performed for the 200 guests. Each guest received a series of frameable prints of past inaugurations … January 20, 1981 California Garden Salad Sautéed Chicken Breast Covered with White Wine Sauce and Capers* Rice Pilaf Hot Asparagus […]

Categories: American Cooking, Chicken, Recipes, White House • Tags: Cooking, Food, Inaugural menus, Recipes, Ronald Reagan, White House

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President James A. Garfield

All the President’s Tables: James A. Garfield’s Inaugural Reception Menu

November 6, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

On March 4, 1881, people lucky enough or well-placed enough or ambitious enough entered through the doors of what is now the Smithsonian’s Castle, in Judiciary Square, to celebrate the inauguration of President James A. Garfield, the last of the U.S. presidents born and raised in a log cabin. A contemporary account states that: The reception and ball to celebrate the inauguration of President James Abram Garfield is held in the as yet unfinished National Museum building. The Board of […]

Categories: Chicken, Oysters, Recipes • Tags: Cooking, Food, Inaugural menus, James A. Garfield, Recipes

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Red-Hot Coals (Used with permission.)

BARBECUE = BARBARIC? A SHORT, SUCCINCT HISTORY

September 15, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The All-American favorite cooking method, “barbecue,” sounds uncannily like “barbarism.” When warm nights and hotter days rev up cooks’ tempers as summer suddenly seems interminable, cooks turn to the trusty (and maybe rusty) BBQ grill and primal techniques of searing meat over an open flame. Age-old these methods are, indeed. And frankly barbaric, to the Western mind anyway. Even if there is no link linguistically between the two words. (“Barbarian” comes from the Greek bárbaros, meaning “the sound foreigners make.”) […]

Categories: Chicken, Fish, Pork, Recipes, Southern Food • Tags: Andrew Warnes, Barbecue, BBQ, Cooking, Food, Southern cooking

madeline-kamman

Cooks’ Quirks, Complete with a List of Good Reads at the End

August 22, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Quirky cooks—they’re everywhere, if you look. Read Rex Stout’s Nero Wolfe detective series and you contend with chef Fritz Brenner, whose kitchen is like the Pentagon—impenetrable. Turn to Madeleine Kamman’s book, In Madeleine’s Kitchen, and you hear James Beard saying, in the preface (and in an understatement), that Madeleine “is a very outspoken person on the subject of food.” And that is the secret: a true cook is one tough customer and nothing but the best will do or else. […]

Categories: Bibliographies, Chicken, French Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Chefs, Cooking, Cooks, Escoffier, Food, French Cooking

Marc Meneau

Can a 3-Star French Chef Be a Regular Guy? Marc Meneau Tries

August 20, 2008 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Writing about 3-star French chef Marc Meneau is, in a way, like trying to write about Leonardo Da Vinci. Geniuses really need geniuses to write about them, to interpret them, to salute them, like buck privates in the presence of 5-star generals. It’s a little bit like meeting God – you’re afraid to look at the burning bush. But sometimes star chefs just have to make do with lowly food writers. After a sublime, relaxing lunch at Meneau’s Vezelay retreat in France’s […]

Categories: Chicken, French Cooking, Recipes • Tags: Chicken, Cooks, Food, French Cooking, Marc Meneau, Recipes

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

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What’s Cookin’ Here

  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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