Gherkins & Tomatoes

Gherkins & Tomatoes

Meditations and Photographs about Food, Cooking, and Life

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Dr. Joseph Goldberger

The Curse of Corn: Poverty and Politics and Pellagra

July 24, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Dr. Joseph Goldberger stands watching the children eating. He’s about to prove his hunch that pellagra occurred in the face of nutritional deprivation. He devoted years to discovering what caused the curse of corn, pellagra. Although the fat cats in the South of the time, and we’re talking early 20th-century here, didn’t want to spend money on feeding programs, Goldberger managed to set up situations where he proved that insects and bacteria had nothing to do with the scourge of […]

Categories: Agriculture, Corn, Hunger, Italy, Local foods, Paintings, Southern Food, Spain • Tags: Gaspar Casal, Joseph Goldberger, Maize, Niacin, Pellagra, Southern cooking

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Wonderwerk Cave

Prometheus Unbound: New Evidence on Humans’ Early Use of Fire

April 3, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I woke up this morning fully intending to end my two weeks of silence on this blog – due to familial obligations – with a preliminary examination of the role of ducks in French cuisine. But that alluring topic took a sudden backseat when I opened up my local newspaper and read, “Humans May have Used Fire 1 Million Years Ago.” Recent archaeological finds in a South Africa’s Wonderwerk Cave place human use of fire at least several hundreds of thousands of […]

Categories: Africa, Archaeology, Cooking, Drawings, France, Paintings • Tags: Africa, Félix Régnault, Grottes de Gargas, Myths, Paleolithic Diet, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, Richard Wrangham, Wonderwerk Cave

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Cooks Aertsen Cook in Front of Stove

The Expert (French) Cook in Enlightenment France: A Review

January 14, 2012 by Cynthia Bertelsen

If you scrutinize sixteenth-century Dutch artist Pieter Aertsen’s painting, “The Cook in Front of the Stove,” you will see a rather stereotypical image of servant cooks, one that persisted in popular memory in Europe until well into the nineteenth century. Sean Takats, assistant professor of history at George Mason University and codirector of Zotero, attempts to get beyond that image in his thought-provoking new book, The Expert Cook in Enlightenment France. Beginning with the premise that much what passes for fact […]

Categories: Book Reviews, Chefs, Cooking, Food writing, France, French Cooking, Methods, Paintings • Tags: Chefs, Cooks, Culinary History, Food History, France, French cuisine, Pieter Aertsen, Sean Takats

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French cooks marrons glaces

A Few Marrons Glacés for the Season … A Gift for You

December 16, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Photo credit: Robyn Lee A while ago, I promised you a short list of facsimile/translated French cookbooks. The following list represents a number of old French-language cookbooks translated into English that you’ll find freely available on the Internet, something quite helpful when you’ve dropped your last holiday dollar on the fixings for Beef Wellington and a gilty box of exquisite marrons glacés. But I don’t need that box of candied sweetmeats; the words of people long dead taste better than […]

Categories: Christmas, Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Paintings, Photography, Reference • Tags: Chestnuts, Culinary History, Facsimile Cookbooks, Food History, Le Ménagier de Paris, Medieval cookbooks

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Art credit: Jehan Georges Vibert (1890)

The Cardinal and the Chef

November 11, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Sauce Madère 2 cups brown sauce (you can use prepared demi-glace like that sold by D’Artagnan ) 2 T. good Madeira Cook down the brown sauce for 20 minutes over medium heat. Add the Madeira, raise the heat, and cook rapidly; the sauce should look syrupy and lightly coat a metal spoon. Serve with beef or chicken.

Categories: Chefs, France, French Cooking, Paintings • Tags: Art, Jehan Georges Vibert, Paintings, Sauces

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French colonial map

The Creation of French Africa: Officialdom at Work

October 27, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

True, the British colonized the Gambia, Sierra Leone, Ghana, and Nigeria, but for all practical purposes, like a roll of the dice, West Africa fell to the French. And it wasn’t an easy roll of the dice, either. Carton after carton of documents from the late 1800s arrive at my assigned reading space in the Archives d’Outre-Mer. I’m looking for things like the impeccably handwritten book on West African agriculture or mentions of food eaten by colonial administrators, things that […]

Categories: Africa, France, Paintings, Portugal • Tags: Maps, Portugal, West Africa

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Van Gogh The Potato Eaters

Hunger’s Fearsome Power: The Body and Soul of Vincent van Gogh

August 31, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

(For more about France and artists, see “Food for Art’s Sake: eating with the Impressionists.” Ask people if they’ve heard of Vincent van Gogh, and they’ll say, “Oh yeah, that crazy artist, the dude who cut his ear off and gave it to some hooker.” True. Using a straight razor, van Gogh sliced off part of his left ear, wrapped it up in a white napkin, and presented it to a prostitute named Rachel in Arles, France. Crazy as mudbugs […]

Categories: Art, France, Paintings • Tags: Ancel Keys, France, French Cooking, Hunger, Knut Hamsun, Paul Gauguin, Starvation, Vincent van Gogh

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French cooks Bazille raspberries

Family Reunions: The Real and the Ideal

August 17, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

As Tolstoy wrote, “Happy families are all alike; every unhappy family is unhappy in its own way,” and that is never truer when it comes to family reunions. There’s something rather poignant about pictures of family reunions – they chronicle the passing of time and people. But they don’t reveal the tensions and tight lips and twitchy fists that crop up at these periodic gatherings of dozens of personalities bound by blood and  DNA and fumblings under long-gone sheets. Instead, […]

Categories: Art, France, French Cooking, Paintings • Tags: Family reunions, France, Frédéric Bazille, French Cooking, Impressionists

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French cooks Hand-Writing-upon-the-Wall-Gillray

Feeding France’s Grande Armée: A Pictorial Tribute for Memorial Day

May 30, 2011 by Cynthia Bertelsen

An army marches on its stomach. ~~Napoleon Bonaparte~~ And Napoleon Bonaparte would know. He, like Adolph Hitler in another time, tried unsuccessfully to conquer Russia. What he fed his soldiers in large part depended upon the invention of a Mr. Nicolas Appert, who invented a [relatively] safe way to preserve food by canning, or sealing in glass bottles, actually. Tins came later. War, a scourge that humans have yet to eliminate like smallpox, demanded weapons, yes, and men to carry […]

Categories: England, France, French Cooking, Paintings, Photography • Tags: Algeria, Banania, French Army, James Gillray, Jean-Baptiste Tournassoud, Napoleon Bonaparte, Napoleon I, Napoleonic Wars, Nicolas Appert, Spahis, War photography, World War I

Francophonie map

Inroads of Language, Basted with the Stiff-Necked Grip of French Cuisine

December 27, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The reach of France’s colonial empire extended far beyond a few fur trappers and Hollywood’s stereotype of exhausted  men, rubbing at their scraggly beards, cursing their conscription into the Foreign Legion. Language, not just nationality, impacted millions of people over the centuries. And, I think, cuisine. Food came with that language and made a dent that I sensed very strongly when I lived in Morocco, Haiti, and Burkina Faso, all French-influenced former colonies, all imbued with an essence every bit […]

Categories: Art, Chicken, France, Haiti, Paintings • Tags: Auguste Escoffier, Cartes, Chicken Fritters, France, Francophonie, French colonial empire, Haiti, L’Empire colonial français, Maps, Marinad ak Poulet, Marinade de Volaille

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France Advent 13 desserts

No Partridges, Just Thirteen Desserts: French Christmas Culinary Traditions

November 30, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I love culinary traditions … and usually I don’t mind cooking all the foods associated with upholding those traditions.  Like Thanksgiving dinner, for example. Turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole (from scratch, mind you), pumpkin pie with whipped cream (crust handmade just prior to baking), and sweet potato casserole (no marshmallows). Mac and cheese, too, if you’re a true Southerner. Culinary traditions pin you to your past, or at least allow you to tie your apron […]

Categories: Christmas, France, French Cooking, Paintings • Tags: Advent, Christmas, Cuisine Francaise, France, French Cooking, Provence, Réveillon, Thirteen Desserts, Treize Desserts

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France medieval_gastronomy

French Cuisine, an Exposition on Medieval Food Not to be Missed

November 22, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Click on the image to “attend” a gorgeous exposition of the history of medieval French cuisine: Be sure to click on the images in order to start the slide shows, chock full of paintings depicting culinary life during the Middle Ages.

Categories: Art, Cooking, Food News, France, French Cooking, Paintings, Photography • Tags: Cuisine Francaise, Culinary History, Culinary History Expositions, Culinary History Images, French cuisine

Mushrooms Larousse 1916

Idylls of Cuisine, #80

September 19, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A photograph, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: France, French Cooking, Mushrooms, Paintings, Reference • Tags: Cookbooks, France, French Cooking, Larousse Gastronomique, Mushrooms

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Quilts peas

Curl Up with a Nice Food Blog …

July 21, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

The creativity, wit, and wisdom of food bloggers never ceases to amaze me. And so today, I simply must let you know about some new, to me anyway, blogs (and bloggers) that I’ve run across lately. Here are two that provide gorgeous pictures, along with commentary and a bit of food history: “An English Kitchen,” by the author of “Joanna’s Food,” documents cooking in a country house in England: I have a huge collection of cookery books, and have recently […]

Categories: Art, Paintings • Tags: Art, Food in Art, Peas, Quilts

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Spanish food Velazquez Kitchen scene

Spanish Cooks and The Essence of Their Art

June 23, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

“Just like in the movies, when the hero finally gets up to the ticket window and the clerk slams it shut.” That’s the thought that ballooned in my mind when I walked up to the doors of the Museo del Prado in Madrid on a Monday morning. CLOSED. No Velazquez. Of course, Monday. Here’s something mnemonic for travelers:  Monday = no museums. Even though I really wanted to throw a hissy fit worthy of Scarlet O’Hara, I did what I […]

Categories: Cookbooks, Paintings, Spain, Spanish cooking • Tags: Arte de Cocina, Diego Granado Maldonado, Francisco Martínez Montiño, Libro del Art de Cozina, Spain, Spanish Cooking

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Hestia

Idylls of Cuisine, #65

June 6, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A picture, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Art, Cooking, Greece, Italy, Paintings • Tags: Art, Cooking, Greek Goddesses, Hearth, Hestia, Kitchen Gods, Roman Goddesses, Vesta

Herbals sage

Of Herbs and Other Country Messes

May 11, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

When the  sage comes to life again, after its long, lonely slumber in the freezing winter, I always just stop for a moment and marvel. How could this happen? Left outside the kitchen door, the sage bows before the relentless blasts of icy winds and heavy snow. Its leaves and branches shrivel to skeletal silhouettes, as the soil in the cracked terracotta pot contracts into something better suited for building material than for sustaining life. And yet, come April, tiny […]

Categories: Art, Books, Cookbooks, England, Europe, Greece, Middle Ages, Paintings • Tags: De materia Medica, Dioscorides, Eleanour Sinclair Rohde, Herbals, Herbs

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Dejeuner sur l'Herbe

Pass the Nostalgia, and Nix the Organics

April 14, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

I’ll be blunt: I like my food with a heaping handful of nostalgic romanticism. Yes, there are those who claim that the present food landscape sparkles with the dreamy hue reminiscent of rose-colored glasses, that the perfume of nostalgia permeates too much of present-day “discourse” on food. And then there’s the flip side of that discourse — I hate that word, so pompous, nay, plump with the moral sensitivities of a Cotton Matheresque preacher — the self-righteous guilt-producers crusading to […]

Categories: Books, Cookbooks, Critic's Corner, Editorials, Food writing, Paintings • Tags: Alice Waters, Cooking, M. F. K. Fisher, Michael Pollan, Organics, Tangerines

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Lent Pieter Brueghel

Idylls of Cuisine, #51

February 21, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

[A picture, and nothing more, for silent contemplation.]

Categories: Art, Carnevale, Lent, Paintings • Tags: Art, Lent, Paintings, Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The Fight Between Carnival and Lent

Vanitas paintings 1

The Art of Ash Wednesday: Omnia vanitas

February 17, 2010 by Cynthia Bertelsen

Ash Wednesday, not a day for feasting, but rather for fasting and contemplating the fleetingness of life and all its pleasures. In the seventeenth-century Netherlands, a remarkable style of painting arose, still-life, the most intriguing in some ways being that of the vanitas still-life. Usually artists portrayed a skull surrounded by the gifts (as they saw it) of a blessed life. Food, books, tobacco, flowers, everything that helped to make life worth living. These object helped the artists get their […]

Categories: Art, Europe, Holland, Paintings • Tags: George Hainz, Holland, Jan Davidsz de Heem, Pieter Boel, Ricky Swallow, Vanitas

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Food forms the very essence of life, from the fruit fly to the elephant, with humans in between. So much of what we do revolves around cooking, eating, and the finding of food. Here you'll discover stories, meditations, and photographs celebrating the places that we call home. And, of course, the food that garnishes it all.

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What’s Cookin’ Here

  • A Bare Table is Like an Artist’s Canvas
  • “Stew’s so comforting on a rainy day.” *
  • Singkong, Manioc, Mandioca, Mandió, Tapioca, Yuca: Singing the Praises of Manihot esculenta (Cassava)
  • The Promise of Apple Blossoms

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